CLOTHING RAD HOURANI UNISEX HAUTE COUTURE - COLLECTION #11
PHOTOGRAPHY WIKKIE HERMKENS - STYLING SONNY GROO - HAIR TOM BERRY - MAKE UP THOM WALKER - MODEL PASCAL BONVIE at REPUBLIC MODELS - INTERVIEW SAVI KURUPPU
SAVI KURUPPU Recently you were invited to Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture and you made history as the first unisex designer to present a collection. How does that feel?
RAD HOURANI I must say that I think a great deal about myself when designing. Of course, I didn’t create a brand just for my own sake, but I believe that using what I would like to wear as a starting point for the design process is the most truthful and straightforward approach. It allows me to stay focused on my aesthetic and assess my commitment to wearability, functionality and comfort.
I have always been interested in creating something that looks minimal but is complex to make. For me, that is the most challenging part of my work. I also admire the craftsmanship of making something extremely luxurious without it being showy. Attending to complexity and simplicity at the same time is a very long process. It’s all about “savoir faire” which is working with the best of the best in every aspect: fabrics, tailoring, cutting, fitting, proportions, etc. I did my first collection for my personal wardrobe and I had no idea that it would go this far. I like taking risks to make a difference in what we do in life. I like to create my own rules and not follow rules just to be part of an industry or a category. I do what makes sense to me and it always works out very well. Today, I am very proud and honored to be an invited member of haute couture and to be the first unisex designer in history. I never thought that the past five years of doing what I love would bring me to this point.
RAD HOURANI Distils His UNISEX with Choreographer Édouard Lock at PHI
Ballet dancer Zofia Tujaka transforms from ingénue to hard-edged vamp in Unisex, a neo-noir short directed by Rad Hourani. Shot in Montreal’s Phi Centre, the atmospheric performance sees Tujaka gesticulate to a haunting score by New York composer Nico Muhly. “Before I started designing my collections I bought a video and a photo camera,” explains the Jordan-born designer, who has cultivated a following with his all-black, cerebral collections from his Paris studio. “For me, movement is as important as design; as much as literature, as much as food.” Enlisting David Bowie and Frank Zappa collaborator Édouard Lock for the original choreography, the piece comes as part of Hourani’s multi-channel exhibition, Seamless, featuring five-years of graphic design work, photography and bespoke looks from his unisex haute couture collection. “For me, Édouard’s work represents the masculine and the feminine, the fast and the slow, the hard and the soft—all the contradictions.”